End of the “Duck Lips” era: today aesthetic surgery aims for seductive yet natural lips

The lips have always held a special place in artistic and poetic imagination — a symbol of beauty, sensuality and expression. Yet the exaggerated “duck lips” popular in the 1990s are no longer associated with sex appeal. The modern trend, especially since 2021, favours lips that look natural, proportionate and well-defined.

Away with extremes: Aesthetic Surgery is increasingly oriented toward a more authentic beauty, offering personalised solutions for every type of lip and for imperfections caused by aging, stress and pollution.

As always, celebrities influence trends. Jennifer Aniston, Kirsten Dunst, Kate Middleton, Gwyneth Paltrow and Jennifer Lopez prove that thin, refined lips never go out of style. Meanwhile, Bella Hadid and Kylie Jenner embody the appeal of fuller, more voluminous lips.

But is there such a thing as the “perfect proportion”? According to current aesthetic codes, lips should respect a 1:2 ratio — one third for the upper lip and two thirds for the lower lip, which typically measures around 10 mm in height. These are guidelines, not universal standards, as each mouth must be evaluated in harmony with the patient’s facial structure.

During the pandemic, despite mask-wearing, requests for lip volume and definition more than doubled in Italy, echoing a trend that began in Eastern Europe.

Before undergoing any treatment, it is crucial to rely on proven techniques and qualified professionals. The best result is always the most natural — never excessive or “social media style”.

The most common procedure for enhancing volume and softness is the hyaluronic acid lip filler, injected with thin needles into the soft tissues of the lips. Results last about six months. The same filler is used to redefine the vermilion border, providing subtle, youthful refinement.

The Lip Lift is a minimally invasive surgical option that lifts the upper lip by removing excess skin via a small incision beneath the nose. It offers a long-lasting, natural-looking result.

Another option is Lipostructure (autologous fat grafting), which uses purified fat taken from the hips or abdomen and re-injected using micro-cannulas or fine needles to enhance lip volume.

To smooth wrinkles around the lips, new-generation biorevitalizing treatments can be used, consisting of amino acids, nucleic acids and vitamins administered through devices such as Nanosoft Fillmed, equipped with ultra-thin micro-needles.

For those looking to accentuate the Cupid’s Bow or reshape the central portion of the lips, techniques such as the “Russian Lips” — inspired by the doll-like aesthetic — may be used. These often involve multiple micro-injections of hyaluronic acid inside the lip mucosa.

Maria Serena Patriarca